Exploring the Evolution of Traditional Vietnamese Attire
Vietnam is one of the countries that has experienced a great deal of foreign rule. As a result, its traditional clothing has changed under various influences over time. In particular, Vietnam, which had extensive cultural exchanges with China, not only developed its own unique styles but also incorporated influences from Manchu fashion and even Western design elements. The transformation of traditional Vietnamese clothing is not just a change in attire but an important reflection of historical trends.
1. 11th–14th Century: Lý Dynasty – Influence of Hanfu Style
From the 11th to the 14th century, traditional Vietnamese clothing closely resembled the Chinese Hanfu style. The garments were loose and spacious in shape. Men’s clothing consisted of long robes and waistbands, while women wore thin cloth wrapped around the chest along with Yếm, an undergarment, forming what was known as Giao Lĩnh.
2. 15th–18th Century: Later Lê Dynasty
Starting in the 15th century, traditional Vietnamese clothing gradually developed its own distinct style. Men continued to wear Giao Lĩnh, which was influenced by Chinese fashion, but women began wearing long outer garments made of four panels. This outfit was called Áo Tứ Thân. Áo Tứ Thân was a practical outfit that spread widely, even in rural areas.
During this period, clothing became more refined, and colors and patterns were used to signify social status. Men wore turbans (wide headbands), while women adorned themselves with elaborate hair ornaments.
3. Late 18th Century: Tây Sơn Dynasty – Shift Toward Practical Clothing
The Tây Sơn Dynasty introduced innovations in clothing. As practicality became a trend, garments adapted to accommodate greater mobility. Men replaced long robes with knee-length Áo Ngũ Thân, worn with trousers, while women’s clothing also evolved to be more functional. These changes greatly influenced Áo Dài (Áo Dài), which is now recognized as Vietnam’s iconic traditional attire.
4. 19th Century: Nguyễn Dynasty – Influence of Manchu Fashion
By the late 19th century, Vietnamese clothing began to resemble the Manchu Qizhuang style. As exchanges with the Qing Dynasty increased, the loose-fitting garments of the past were replaced with more form-fitting designs, and the early form of Áo Dài began to take shape. Compared to earlier garments, this period introduced silhouettes that emphasized body curves. Members of the royal court and high-ranking officials used vibrant colors and embroidery to display their status.
5. Early 20th Century: Evolution of Áo Dài
The 20th century saw a significant modernization of traditional Vietnamese clothing. In the 1930s, Western tailoring techniques were introduced, leading to the transformation of Áo Dài into a more form-fitting design. By the 1950s, the contemporary Áo Dài as we know it today had fully taken shape, featuring a slim silhouette that accentuates the waistline.
6. 21st Century: Modern Designs
Today, Áo Dài, Vietnam’s traditional attire, remains an important cultural symbol. Though not commonly worn in daily life, it is still used for weddings, holidays, and official ceremonies. Various modified styles of Áo Dài blend tradition with modern fashion. Designers incorporate intricate embroidery and luxurious silk to refine the garment’s elegance. Additionally, contemporary adaptations such as shorter Áo Dài and fusion styles have emerged to enhance practicality.
Conclusion: Traditional Vietnamese Clothing as a Reflection of History
The evolution of traditional Vietnamese clothing is not merely a stylistic transformation but a result of historical events, cultural exchanges, and the need for practicality. From its origins in Hanfu-style attire to the influences of Manchu Qizhuang, leading to the Áo Dài we see today, the changes in Vietnamese clothing vividly reflect the nation’s historical journey.